Camp two was at the Big Brook Arboretum, beside a stand of redolent Californian redwoods. Volunteer hosts representing the Department of Conservation were on site to collect fees and ensure we didn't set the bush on fire or terrorize the Euro campers. Dinner was a bottle of organic apple juice from the Tangletoe Cidery, poured over rolled rye and fruit salad. In our goal to perfect minimalist camping, we neglected to pack any bedding other than a sheet inside the swag. One chilly night was enough and so the swag cover became our very stiff blanket. I now have a greater appreciation for homeless folk that sleep under cardboard boxes.
From the Arboretum we followed the Bibbulmun Track for a short way to the Big Brook Dam, where an all access walkway loops around the watercourse. We shared the early morning with kookaburras, black swans, ducks and a trout.
Coffee time at the Pemberton Lavender & Berry Farm. The kind of place you'd take your nana to win major brownie points. I'm not sure how this lavender scone with honey snuck into our aura. Correct, it is definitely not raw, but the handful of crooning seniors can't have been wrong (although they did have deadly peaks of clotted cream on theirs).
Where the Margaret River region has become swish, classy and correct, the hand painted sign still has a place in Pemberton. Where else can you buy avocados with a valuable message?
All the fresh water swimming flushed the salt from our gills and we felt the call of the Southern Ocean for thallasotherapy, via a cultural stop at the Understory sculpture walk. This unique art-in-nature exhibition is on permanent display at Northcliffe and deserves its own post which you can find here.
There is only one sealed road to the coast between Augusta and Walpole, and it terminates at Point D'Entrecasteaux. The quality of light at Salmon Beach was spectacular; nothing from here to Antarctica, except a few friendly great whites. This is wild country and Big White was itching to let some air out of her tires and trundle to our next campsite.