Hovering above Taormina, and wrapped around the summit like a nest, is the quaint village of Castelmola. It is crowned as one of the "most beautiful villages of Sicily", and it certainly indulged my vision of the quintessential Italian mountain town. My life in the flat lands may provide fine beaches, palms and vineyards, but it is sorely deficient in castles and contours. I arrived from Taormina on the first bus of the day and was free to amble about the lanes and climb over the thirteenth century castle ruins before the day trippers arrived. My top tip is to bus up and walk back down hill; don't be fooled into the reverse on a summer's day. The view is impressive, there are wild figs along the way, and if you are lucky you will round the corner and be met by an empty coffin.