Lonely Planet opens by saying : "More of a sugar-spiked espresso than a milky cappuccino, Sicily will reward you with an intense bittersweet experience rather than anything lightweight and frothy." This is an apt description of my introduction to Catania. Many elegant baroque buildings are neglected and worn; their muted render scarred by graffiti and black grime. It's a city that is lived in; a working, breathing centre that merges history and modern commercialism without pretence.
I stayed in the Globetrotter Bed & Breakfast and can recommend it as a quiet, central and comfortable place to stay.