Walk up the main cobbled street in Erice and you may wonder why the sudden throng of posing tourists. Behold, Sicily's most famous pasticceria; a Mecca for all things sweet and almond flavoured. Its rise to world wide prominence followed the book Bitter Almonds, which tells the story of Maria Grammatico's childhood in a closeted convent where she trained as an apprentice pastry chef. Upon leaving the fold, she took with her the traditional recipes and opened her own shop, where an irresistible array of treats are baked in house. Maria sits behind the till, counting the coins, as boxes of assorted goodies walk out the door. A sunken courtyard is hidden beside the cafe and provides the perfect spot to recharge with an espresso and selection of pretty button biscuits. The little morsels make for great dunking.